We have ventured north from Kolkata to a cold but beautiful land. Nestled between Bhutan, Nepal, Tibet (formerly), China and North Bengal (Darjeeling area), the state of Sikkim is culturally diverse and astoundingly beautiful with it's Himalayan scenery.
the original people here were the Lepchas, who refer to themselves as the Rongpas (ravine dwellers). Now they are the minority and have the middle of this state reserved for them and only them.
The next to come were the Bhutia's, from Tibet, and finally the Nepalese, following the British much late on. Now about 80% of the population are Nepali (typically Hindu), while the Bhutias and Rongpas are Buddhist, though the Rongpas incorporate animism into their belief system (their original religion).
On top of these 3, there are many combinations and sub sects that pose a religious mix like nowhere else! and yet it remains a peaceful, agreeable place.
Incredibly peaceful.
We are staying with a woman named Primula and she has taught us much about the ways of Nepali people here...religiously-both Hindu (her birth religion) and Buddhism (she married into it), and delectably-cooking many foods found only in Sikkim, or only for festivals [Sikkimese New Years just ended, called Losoong]).
All of this is perfectly satisfying to moi, who not only loves food, but devoted 4 years to the study of cultural anthropology!
The capital of Sikkim is Gangtok, where we're staying, and from here we have visited the Rumtek Monastery (of the Mahayana branch of Buddhism, seat of the 17th Karmapa, important place), Ganesh Tok (beautiful view), a zoological park (Himalayan snow leopard, common leopard, civet, red panda [in the raccoon family], Himalayan black bear and Himalayan wolves), and the Nagyal Institute of Tibetology (houses some of the most sacred texts and ceremonial objects of Buddhism).
At the Rumtek Monastery we walked up just in time to witness a ceremony...perhaps following the death of someone according to Primula. It was quite something. knowing nothing about what was going on, we could only watch and listen in delighted silence.
We went right into the main building after this and felt quite out of place as monks draped in red proceeded to put everything away. It was fun to see little monks running around the legs of taller ones, chasing each other with the drum 'sticks', giggling and laughing and smiling at us as we timidly walked by.
Even when we're doing 'nothing' over here, I'm still learning tons everyday.
I long for that when I'm at home.
I learned today (for instance) that Bodhi day, the day f Buddha's enlightenment, is celebrated on December 8th, my birthday!
Seems I celebrated my 24th year in the right country.
About the birthday, an all around satisfying day in Kolkata: Went to a planetarium and had a wonderful nap beneath the starry night sky! (it was just so dark and quiet and comfortable with a soothing voice lulling us for half an hour!), walked through the Maidan - one of my favorite places in the city... a huge HUGE open field where everything is happening, from horse rides, to father and son flying kites, to food sales, to reading, to walking, to goats grazing. Wonderful! Then we met our host Biplob at a cafe, waited for Katie, another traveller staying with him, and his friend Aloo. then mosied over to the nicest restaurant I'd yet been to in India. Delicious veggie sizzler was the meal, with a Tom Collins to drink! Our local guys then took us to a fancy bar to see a live rock band (have toured Europe and NA I believe) and by 2am we were ready for bed!
In words it sounds quite regular, but in real life, everything was somewhat surreal, as we 'discovered' what was around each corner.
Oh and Dylan and I got our new glasses that day! Glasses, with lenses for 5 dollars. A reasonable birthday gift to myself I'd say!
On the way to Sikkim we stopped in Darjeeling for tea and warm clothes. as a note.
Now we're preparing for Christmas in Gangtok most likely, or perhaps Pelling where there is apparently a festival of music, crafts, food, art etc. Wherever we are, we'll be bathing in sunlight, wrapped in wool shawls, gazing at the third highest peak in the world, and thoroughly missing family and friends.
here are my latest thoughts... I just started a book called 'Sadhana, the spiritual way" by Swami Krishnananda. Sadhana means 'spiritual practice' the word in sanskrit means 'an effort exercised towards the achievment of a purpose'. Thus basically every effort is sadhana, because it leads to the achievment of some goal. Krishnananda asks this "here in the context of what is known as spiritual sadhana, what is it that we are aiming at? What do you want finally? If the goal is not clear, any means adopted to the goal will fall flat, like a huge structure raised ona weak fonudation. Let each one of you put a question to your own self, "what am I seeking in the end?"
The book continues to guide thought through questions. BUt what a starting point! those words are from the first 2 paragraphs.
What it spurred in me was this (from my journal):
"In life I seek connection. WIth people. WIth the cycle. I want to learn of coenctions between plants and bugs. between humans and fungi. between spirit and physical. between cultures and countries. between friends and strangers."
it's vague, but I suppose it's the blessing on the the ground where the foundation will be built. A starting point.
So that's me lately. Take these words and ponder. Find time to ponder. As Primula told us over breakfast today, the Sikkimese know how to enjoy life. Even in government jobs, when the work day is 10-4, people show up at 11, take a 2 hour lunch break from 1-3 and usually no one is there from 3-4! But everything still gets done. and they've enjoyed connection of conversation with friends throughout the day. They've enjoyed family and practiced devotion. They've soaked in the sun and cultivated a relaxed, peaceful, shining self. That's how it seems, and that's how I've experienced people.
Enjoy the holiday season, full of family, friends, and a break from the rush!
So much love and bushels of hugs!
lauren
This is the 'Empty Beach'as it's called. At first it seemed beautiful and wonderful, but aftera few days of roaming around, the garbage became more apparent and the feces (dog and human) definetly took away form the environment. These became particularly noticeable after a dead turtle (caught in the big industry fishing nets {from the big cities, not so much the local fishers}) washed up on shore beside us.
Sideways, sorry! This is how we brought in the new year! Dancing on the street of Puri with about 20 young men! It was hilarious and so much fun! Indian men really have some incredible dance moves!
At another section of the beach I sat alone and watched people for awhile. This man was selling chapati with a dal or something veggie like and delicious, and samosas.
From Puriu we rented a scooter and scooted over to Konark for the day. Konrak is home to the Sun Temple, a World Heritage Site . DIP enjoyed it too...had to!
ANd one of the main reasons we ended up going south to Orissa from Kolkata was to visit a dinosaur museum in Bhubaneswar! not quite what we were expecting, more of a physics and math science centre, but there certainly was a giant T-Rex model!
