Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Correction

Wow, this place is phenomenal.
Kutchi people are just incredible.
So giving and so warm.
Last night I ended up in village 2 hours from my hotel at 6pm. The sun was about to set and I would be driving alone on a moped through the desert. NOt ideal.
This was all discovered while sitting in the home Sufiya, a Mutwa woman, drinking chai. Her brother (english name is Aladdin) came in and learned of the predicament and started offering options...i was most welcome to stay there of course, or he would ride with me and come back that same night in his brothers car.
I opted for option 2 and we off into the desert. Me driving, Aladdin on the back.
As darkness fell, the wind started and a good ol desert sand storm whipped sand into our faces. Fat rain sporadically splatted down..at which point Aladdin stopped predicting what turns in the road would holdfor wind and weather because this was too unusual. Rain doesn't start until June here.
Needless to say I was sure glad not to be alone.
It was safe enough. Though there was lightening in the far distance, Aladdin was singing Kutchi folk songs into the night, so it eased all worries and made for a mystical, memorable night!

The wedding was also memorable. I was taken under the care of several rabari women for the whole night. WHOLE NIGHT> the wedding didn't start until about 11pm, then continued for many hours into the night. I was taken to a bed at one point...and gratefully took the chance to sleep a few hours.
I learned chapati rolling and had hindi/gujarati/kutchi lessons from a young girl who would tell me the name of my simply drawn picture..tree, flower, foot, house etc.
in the morning i was woken up by Vanka Rabari, the man that invited me, so I could watch the goodbye. After a night of ceremony in the woman's village, it was time for everyone she grew up with to say goodbye before she was taken with the men to her new husband's village where she will start a new life in his mother's home.
seems difficult to me.
and apparently for her too as the goodbye consisted of women singing constantly, I think verbal support for the bride who was hidden under a thiick black shawl the entire night, and the bride wailing in sadness as one by one her village said goodbye. Many women were crying also.
Not the 'happiest night of on'es life' like we hope for at home eh?

The correction I wanted to make from my last entry is about the rabari being nomadic. SOme are, but they are to the east of here...noted by men wearing all white, white turbans too , and women wearing all balck. Thesee rabari are settled in villages. The men wear white clothes but dark turbans (red for weddings). The women have elaborate embroidered tops and more colorful shawls over their black embroidered skirts.

Many memoreis from amazing Kutch. I must come back some day. But for now, onwards to Varanasi!

Avjo,
Lauren

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Wow Lauren, I continue to be truley inspired by the words that you write, the experiences you have and the people you meet.

I am imagining the nature and beauty of the reclaimed forest. It's initiatives like these that can be so enriching and positive for local communities, as well of course for the natural ecology.

What dreams can you see? What songs can you now teach? I belive that the open doors exist where ever your mind is open.

I too am having a moving experience by opening young minds to new possibilities. As the snow disapears I can feel my energy growing for the coming seasons.

Dear Ranjeeta, keep flowing down the river.

-Bri

Anonymous said...

Lauren! We got your card today - THANK YOU! It smells like incense and fresh air - we both smelled the paper as a first reaction! Thanks for the Rumtek picture - it will go on my shrine :)

I know you're out of bounds for the moment - I imagine you'll be back in the "internet world" soon. I'm enjoying living your adventures and we'll have to meet up when you come "home"!

I'm going to Switzerland for May to gather data for my thesis and then I'll be in Edmonton for June. In July and August I'm doing a cycling/performing tour with a group called Otesha. We cycle from Vancouver to Calgary (going through Penticton and OVER the Rockies on the way!) and stop in communities to put on a performance to teach people about sustainable living. It's something I could see you doing - maybe one day we can do it together. Check it out: www.otesha.ca

I am also feeling more hopeful as I find more incredible programs and organizations that are making a difference. I can't wait to catch up with you about these things.

Anyway, here's hoping you're safe and happy. I'm sure you are! Can't wait to meet up when you're through this area again!

Keely

Anonymous said...

PS Thanks for the climbing pass! Maybe we can both use it this summer!

Anonymous said...

Lauren Ranjeeta, it sounds so amazing! I hope I will go to India someday =) Where are you now?

Love, Anne Jeffrey

(in case you know lots of Anne's!)